Text and Photography by Damon Coulter / Magnesium

Japanese women have one of the longest life expectancies in the world, yet there is a neighbourhood in Tokyo where many go to find promises and prayers on even more years. The secret to this Japanese fountain of youth is not some sacred spring or historical holy visitation however- the key to longevity in Japan is apparently to be found in something as simple as red underwear.

Sugamo, located in Tokyo’s northern metropolitan Toshima ward, is one of the areas of the capital commonly known as shitamachi, literally “downtown.” While in the west this might conjure up images of sparkling avenues of retail excess, theatrical name drops and glittering nights of cocktail hedonism, in Sugamo it simply means that the buildings and the outlook of the people have not really changed much since the 1950s. This is an area of post-war traditions and frugality where people rarely leave their immediate surroundings. Consequently, the area has evolved its own booming micro-culture that caters to the older generation in much the same way the fashionable areas of the city attract and enthrall the young. Indeed, Sugamo is often called the Harajuku of old ladies (Tokyo’s Harajuku district is famous for its cutting edge fashion and youth culture).

The heart of Sugamo lies in the the Togan-ji Temple where the statues of Toganuki Jizō and Arai Kannon promise cures and blessings on long life and health. All the attendant paraphernalia of religious observance abound: monks beg alms and offer prayers of longevity in return, health foods and lucky charms are sold, and in the temple grounds itself the statue of Arai Kannon is purported to offer those who rub it with a wet cloth a miracle cure in the corresponding area of the body. The worries of age are also a rich source of income for charlatan healers and medics who set up stalls in the temple grounds, and along the main shopping street known as Jizō Dori.

Perhaps the area’s most famous purchase is its iconic red underpants however. Red is a colour believed to offer those who wear it vigour and freedom from sickness, but this is just one of the many items available in the stores on Jizo Dori. Unlike other shopping streets in Tokyo, this is not a place where brand names count for much, unless of course you are a dedicated follower of the latest name in mobility scooters or want designer walking canes. The items for sale are generally cheap and familiar, the fashion is large-sized and low chic and everything is designed for the comfort and patronage of the older generation.

For Sugamo, however, business has never been better and while it will never be “fashionable” the growing number of older people in Japan is sure to keep the streets and temples of Sugamo popular for the foreseeable future. Far from the bright lights and neon of the Tokyo’s stereotypical image, these streets offer a unique insight into “old” Japan.

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